Changes:

1. Changed NAV 1 Encoder pin 13 to 32
2. Pin 13 is now for Transponder OFF
2. Removed AP encoder switches (they are not needed anyway)

Changes:

1. Fixed 74HC165 Inputs 
2. Fixed Encoder/Potentiometer push buttons
3. Changed Com1, Nav1, Com2, Nav2 encoders to Potentiometers.
4. Enlarged the Ident and AP button holes.
5. Added +/- signs to the buttons with LED's

*There are few mistakes in V3.1, those that have purchased V3.1 please check the Forum for the fix, or if you want just ask for V3.2 for free.

Here is a picture of the Radio stack V3.2 working with MSFS 2020

A short video demonstrating the functionality of the Radio stack V3.2 working with MSFS 2024

A little transponder update

And here is a video demonstrating Radio stack V3.2 working with X-Plane

Changes:

1. Arduino Mega 2560 directly attachable to the back of the PCB (only one Arduino Mega 2560 Pro (small arduino) needed, no need for Arduino shield).
2. Added input shift registers (74HC165) for the push buttons, the number of Arduino pins reduced a lot.
3. Added output shift registers (74HC595), all LEDs are now handled through 74HC959 shift registers, supplied externally with +5V, no current drawn from Arduino
4. Replaced the Transponder rotary switch with a smaller one.

The faceplate will work for V3.1 and V3.2

Changes:

1. Replaced DIY dual encoders with EC11EBB24C03 dual encoders
2. Added GND to the first Arduino shield (Arduino shield V2.2)
​
You can require the gerber files on the Downloads site.

Pinouts looking from the back of the Radiostack.

Use below pictures as reference to solder the resistors (click on the picture to zoom in). As the capacitors are only two types, it is easy to solder them based on their shape.
​or download below for better quality

​In the picture below you will see the pinouts looking from the back of the board

​
​Arduino Pinouts

A little update: I've been working on creating Radio PCB's and GPS PCB which would be better and cleaner even though I don't have enough time. 

I have chosen to go with the whole board version, it will be less wires and easier to be mounted.

Arduino shield will be mounted on the back ov the radio with spacers and will be connected with 3 x 40 pin flat ribbon cable. Max7219 chips and 7 segment displays will be replaceable because on the pcb I will be soldering IC sockets for both displays and max chips.

Here you can see the PCB layout.

Backlight Option
The radio is designed to also use buttons with leds for backlight buttons. With the switch you can turn on/off the lights and dim them as you wish. The problem with these switches are the knobs which are hard to attach, so you have to come up with a way (maybe 3D Print them). You have to take that in consideration if you choose to go with this option.

(I'm not part of any affiliate program, the links below and in the entire website are the cheapest I could find on the web. You should always search for new prices) 
​
Since the most expensive part of the radio stack and the GPS are the dual concentric encoders, my intentions were to make it cheap, so you need two encoders EC12 plastic encoders (EC12 link here) to mount on both sides of the PCB based on this principle:
Dual concentric encoders.
If you don't have a 5V power supply, you can use this step down converter
24V/12V to 5V 5A converter
It is also designed to have tactile buttons with led's built in it like these ones:
Tactile buttons with leds.
A problem about the led tactile buttons is that it is hard to install the knob if you look at one of them. That's why this is optional as these normal tactile buttons have the same dimensions and were meant for it in the first place.
Normal Tactile buttons
Knobs need to be 3D Printed ( you can download them HERE ) or if you don't have a 3D Printer you can use these ones for the bigger knobs
Big Knobs
and these for the smaller ones
Small nobs
As connector you can use this headers:
Headers
And the cables here:
Cable 
For PWR ON/Off encoder I wanted to use this one with a different knob:
On/Off Encoder
And the V1 Enc is a normal Encoder.
If you use the buttons with leds, you need Resistors on the back (size needs to be calculated from you depending what tactile buttons you are going to use).

7 segment displays:

3 digit 7 segment display 0.36inch CC RED
4 digit 7 segment display 0.36inch CC RED
6 digit 7 segment display  0.36inch CC RED
10 x 5 digit 7 segment display 0.36inch CC RED

If you don't want to solder the displays directly on the PCB than you can use these sockets in case any of the displays won't work you can change them
Round Sockets
You need 18x Max7219 Chips
20 x Max7219
​If you don't want to solder Max7219 chips directly to the board so you can change them if any one gets burned than you can use this sockets
Max7219 socket
3mm Led mount
5mm Led mount
330 Ohm resistors
​10K resistors
3Pin 2 Position Switches
25V 10uF Capacitors
50V 0.1uF Capacitors
2.1mm DC Power suply Jack
You also need 2x 2 digit 14 segment displays for NM and KT letters. Just search on ebay, amazon, aliexpress or elsewhere for them but you need to be careful and purchase Common Cathode. Common Anode doesn't work with Max7219 chips.

Update: 27.03.2018 Working on the face plate of the Radiostack. It will be 3D printable, in separate pieces. I have also been working on the knobs and buttons. This face plate fits only on the PCB version of the radio and CAN NOT be used with the DIY version of the radio because it is different and has different dimensions. I'm still working on it so changes ​may apply.

Another possible way would to print the letters engraved to the buttons and fill them with white color. I never tried this method, so you could see if it will probably give better results. I will links you have only one button (Com1) to try it out, if it turns good than you can print them all.

If you wish to modify the faceplate, in the download section you can request the link for the tinkercad file. Feel free to modify it as you need.

2015, Copyright AlbEAGLE